Final Thoughts on Tibet

A pilgrimage to Tibet is one that I have been planning in my heart for quite some time. Thus, it was with a touch of sadness that we left our guide and driver at the Lhasa airport. The 90 minuted drive from Lhasa was mostly quiet as each one of us soaked in the beautiful surroundings for the last time.

Tibet brought many surprises. First, I found the Tibetan people to be some of the most welcoming and kind people that I have ever encountered in my travels. On our first day in Lhasa we watched as local Tibetans gave money to almost every pilgrim that entered the tiny restaurant where we had stopped for momos. We had many offers to drink chang and yak butter tea from people who had much less material wealth than we did. During our trip we were continually greeted by "hello" and a welcoming smile. Two of my favorite memories involved exploring a local bridge while a stream of locals passed and playing with our camera and video equipment with curious nuns in Gyantse. When I think of Tibetan people, images of devote people gently swinging prayer wheels will always cling to my mind.

Change is happening rapidly. The Chinese government seems to be working hard to make Tibet Chinese. For travelers, this means much easier access to all of the "tourist sites." We found new roads everywhere and government imposed fees for taking photos at many of the places we visited. Tibetan language, food, and people appeared to be the minority in the area. The influx of Chinese did not seem to deter the many pilgrims that made their way through the streets of Lhasa on the day of the full moon, but it is hard to know how long this will last. Development always brings challenges and questions. The Chinese government will most likely increase the standard of living for many Tibetans bringing education and infrastructure, but what will be the ultimate cost? Will the community of monks and nuns continue to shrink as young Tibetans opt to be tour guides and restaurant operators? Our Tibetan guide, Lhasing, brought this change home by telling us that, "Tibet is part of China" and "the Dalai Lama is a politician." It seemed clear to us that these ideas have been drilled into his mind.

I hope that I will be able to return to Tibet. I still have much of the world to see, but I know that this unique culture fostered in a harsh, high altitude environment will always have a special place in my heart. The beauty of the people and landscapes are striking. The combination of barren brown mountains, clear mountain streams, endless colorful strings of prayer flags, devote pilgrims, herds of yak, sheep and goats, and the unforgettable smell of yak butter and raw meat paint my picture of this unique land.

Our last night in China was spent at the Park Plaza Beijing Wangfujing Hotel. We were overjoyed to have the creature comforts of home: a shower with plentiful hot water, a Western toilet, multiple English language TV channels, a comfortable clean bed and room service. We live a very spoiled, privileged life. We had no problem returning to the luxuries of our American lifestyle. Despite these conveniences, there is still a part of me that is ready to pack my bag and head out on the road less traveled once again......